Understanding the Local Culture

Before getting a mile out of town, the group’s curiosity about the offerings that can be seen all over Bali got the best of us. Sandy explained that the offerings, or banten, are common ritual in Balinese Hinduism. What we were seeing were canang, the palm leaf trays filled with flowers and food offerings, meant to express thanks to the good spirits and to placate the demons to prevent them from disturbing life’s harmony. These offerings are made daily and can be seen all over Bali– in temples, store fronts, homes, etc.

Our first stop was to watch Barong dancing. Sandy explained to us that theater and dancing are a central part of Balinese culture, and that Barong dancing exemplifies the unique form of Hinduism that exists in Bali. We walked into the outdoor theater and as we were taking our seats, we were showered by the traditional music being played to the side of the stage by an ensemble of nearly 20 performers. Listening to the music and waiting in the heat for the performance to begin, I almost fell into a trance. The costumes used in the performance are elaborate, colorful and fun. The Barong, the “Lord of the Forest,” is a mythical creature, half dog, half lion and his costume requires two performers, one to fill the front and one the back. The story told typifies the Balinese culture, and the constant balancing act between good and evil.

Next, shopping!

Next we visited a local silver shop, followed by a stop at a wood carving shop. At both places we were able to see the masters of trade at work. Bali is known for its wood work, and there were some amazingly elaborate pieces on display and for sale. Sandy explained that some of the larger works required a full year of labor to complete– watching the artists carefully at work, I could understand why! The prevalence of Hinduism was dominate in many of the sculpted pieces and Sandy was happy to share with us the significance of the figures.

On our way to lunch near Mount Kintamani, we stopped at the rice fields outside of Ubud. I never knew so many shades of green existed! As we waited for the sun to come out from behind the clouds for the “perfect photo opp,” I took in the terraced sea of green. At this stop, more than others, we noticed that the locals were accustomed and ready for tourists– they were aggressively hopeful that we would buy their crafts. Our buffet lunch overlooking Mount Kintamani was delicious and filling. The area surrounding the volcano is lush and green, making the black blanket of cooled lava flow that stretches the side of the mountain appear all the more dramatic.

Sandy made a special stop for us at an agrotourism coffee farm. The farm included a small botanical garden and we were greeted by locals, happy to have us sample their freshly roasted coffee. It was so delicious that we made a quick stop at their store to purchase some beans to bring home.

A Place of Worship

The tour includes two stops at temples, first the Holy Springs (Gunung Kawi Temple) and the last stop of the day the Elephant Cave at Goa Gajah. At both temple entrances there were sarongs for borrow, as it is improper to enter a temple with one’s knees exposed. Sandy walked us through the holy springs, situated in lush jungle, and showed us the holy baths. Offerings abounded, and it was clear why this serene setting was chosen as a place of worship. As the name suggests, the Elephant Cave is an elaborately sculpted cave that resembles an elephant. Before the deluge of tourists, this was a place of worship where people would meditate within the Elephant Cave for hours or days.

Driving Home

Our drive back to the hotel corresponded with rush hour and the streets were crowded with motorbikes. Before the trip I’d toyed with the idea of renting a motorbike and touring around the island. On the drive home, a huge sense of relief set in when I realized what I would have been getting myself into had I attempted to weave in and out of traffic with hundreds of other riders. I was happy to be in the van with Sandy.

Seminyak is a shopper’s paradise. There are plenty of branded boutiques, including some that I’m familiar with from Jakarta and others that are completely new to me. And if you ever get tired of shopping, if that’s possible, you can pop into one of the fine-dining restaurants managed by foreigners and locals or any one of the hundreds of cool bars.

But the shopping and eating had to wait because my first order of business was to find a place to stay. On my way to Double Six Beach, home to numerous hotels located on its white sand, I stopped in front of a hip-looking new building. It was The Heaven.

As I entered the lobby (the one on Jalan Seminyak Raya), I as stunned by just how unique this property is. The Haven offers a hotel, suites and villas, and has two lobbies. The one I entered is for walk-in guests to the hotel.

The haven’s hotel rooms surround a courtyard filled with vibrant tropical plants and flowers, with the focus being an elegant ziggurat sculpture with water gently cascading down its face.

When I asked of I could look around the property, I was taking to the middle area of The Haven, where the villas are located. There are seven villa residences of one and two bedrooms featuring private pools and split-level living. The villas also feature a concierge service that is always ready to respond to guest requests.

Then I looked around the suites area. What struck me was the comfortable and homey atmosphere. The Haven boasts 60 spacious suites offering a total of go earthy, minimalist style suites overlook a trio for swimming pools ensconced in landscaped tropical gardens inspired by Bali’s rich natural heritage. Every suite is also fitted with fully equipped kitchenettes, LCD flat-screen TVs with cable, digital audio systems, broadband cable internet and oversize daybeds on the balconies.

The Haven is also strategically located, being just a short stroll away from the dynamic hub of Seminyak, with Bali’s hippest nightspots, boutiques and restaurants.

Hearing the call of the shopping, I found myself out and about in Seminyak that evening looking to unearth what fashionable treasures I could. I had been invited by Paul Ropp to his workshop. Ropps runs one of the one world’s leading fashion brands, Wrapped in Ropp, which has its roots in Bali. Ropp describes his distinctive fashions as being ‘based on sun and fun’. His workshop is located just opposite of Kerobokan prison, tucked away in a side street, so you have to keep your eye out for it.

After spending some time with Ropp and picking up a few of his gorgeous pieces, I spent some time exploring this part of Seminyak, which was wholly unfamiliar to me, and found a chic suites hotel that very much blended in with the surroundings.

Located in the fashionable Pettitinget area, a short walk from some of Bali’s best-known restaurants, bars and boutiques, is Kokonut Suites. Surrounded by a delightful Balinese backdrop of rice fields and coconut trees, Kokonut Suites offers a peaceful and modern refuge hidden away amidst the hustle and bustle of Seminyak.

The 33 spacious suites are designed and built in a modern tropical style. Consisting of one and two-bedroom suites, each suite has a living room, kitchen, bathroom and private balcony.

My reservation was for a one-bedroom suite but they upgraded me to a two-bedroom. It was glorious, with a chose the bedroom n the first floor, with its terrace facing the swimming pool. The bedroom and living room had massive windows and sliding-glass doors, allowing plenty of sunlight.

The suites were lovely clean and well-appointed, but even better was the personalized and caring service of the staff, including romantic dinner they prepared for me by the pool.

Kokonut Suites can also arrange a shuttle to take guest anywhere in the Seminyak area, and knowledgeable staff members are always ready to provide some helpful advice on what to buy and the newest hip spots. Kokonut Suites also has a gym, spa and recreational activities like a kid’s club to ensuer an enjoyable stay.

Seminyak is also known for its cafes and restaurants, especially along Jalan Raya Seminyak and Jalan Laksmana. The variety of cuisines, styles, settings and ambiance is amazing. But make sure to bring your gold card or some extra cash if you are planning to explore these world-class dining establishments, because when the standards are this high, you can expect the prices to follow. Not to worry though, there always something for everybody in Seminyak.