It is only you get up close that you realize the golden eagle’s claws are like a razor’s edge, lethal and cutting. The one perched on the falconer’s hand is simply clamping down with all her force and wings spread slightly, an expression of her anger. She is, in her own way, like a child that wanted a particular toy or perhaps it is more a case of a woman scorned. Hell hath no fury like it. She continues to stomp, as if evening out a small sandy dune. But she is hooded and thus no threat. I’m just glad that she isn’t perched on my hand; she seems a real handful.
‘In the wild, the female is the more dominant of the two genders. The key is to be fearless, it is almost as if they can smell it coming from a mile away. Just go in there and grab her as if you own her. Push her head down into the bag, don’t let her boss you around because you’re in trouble if she does. With time, she is now attuned to my presence and is more docile’, says the South African Kruger as he puts his eagle in its place here at the Banyan Tree Al Wadi in Ras Al Khaimah.
The luxury resort is a rarity in that it is a fully functional nature reserve and helps guests indulge in falconry while at the same time setting standards for conserving nature’s bounty. And make no mistake, Kruger and his band of traveling falconers are the star of the show. The South African cares for the eagle, two owls and several falcons and showing what the birds can do is just one part of the equation for he also talks to falconers and aspiring falconers about the arts of keeping hold of a bird of prey.
Falconry is arespected job in the area, but it is also a drain on your time since Falcons live for eating, as the saying goes. Thankfully I’m not on the menu, and neither is anyone from the audience. Kruger nevertheless whips off the hood to allow the bird to take in the audience and not be perturbed by anyone. It is a risk worth taking with those rapier talons and sharp beak. Once released, the eagle flies off into the nearby dunes, moody and angry. She even ignored Kruger’s lure briefly (from a distance, it had me fooled. It sure looked like a rabbit), but after some cajoling swoops in and shows why she’s such a dangerous predator. What was once a make-believe rabbit is now a furry scrap of nothingness.
‘I’ve never figured eagles out and I’m never relaxed around them. The day I feel I know it all is the day it’ll all go wrong.’ Kruger works hard for these regal birds though. Together with fellow South African Ryan Ingram there are plans afoot to expand the Al Wadi resort to 60 hectares worth of space and this will not only enhance the appeal of a major tourist attraction and a hub for conservation efforts in the area. There is a drama and magic to it all that makes it all a blast from a bygone era and this is the UAE as it is rarely seen, in the clasp of an eagle.
