I like to think of myself as open minded, especially when on the road. I’ve lived in Prague, Paris, and Rome, and have gluttonously celebrated holidays in each place. And while I didn’t end up eating the spongy, candied-fruit-studded dessert that night, I eventually learned that one person’s panettone is not just another person’s fruitcake. Enrico’s sweet of choice is what Pistachio baklava is to a Greek or amaranth-laced dulce de alegria (which means “sweets of joy”) is to a Mexican or a cardamom-scented cannoli-like krumkake is to a Norwegian. Holiday desserts—whether at home or abroad—are more than just the last course of a big meal.

My moment of clarity came a few years ago in Prague, when a Czech friend invited me to celebrate Christmas with her family. The traditional main courses are carp and potato salad—two reasons, in my opinion, to consider fasting for the holidays. Not wanting to insult my hosts, I ate some fish and starchy salad—but had plenty of room for dessert. I feared the worst.

The smell of just-baked vanilla-scented goodness hit me first. I was thousands of miles (and a couple decades) away from my grandma’s house in Sumner, Iowa, yet the scent instantly brought me back there. My grandma wasn’t Czech, but, as it turned out, she had a recipe similar to these valilkove rohlicky, crescent-shaped Christmas cookies made with walnuts, vanilla, and butter. And if the aroma transported me to the Midwest, my first bite brought forth memories long buried in my psyche.

Later that night, as I was putting on my jacket to leave, Vera, my friend’s mom, handed me a few tin-foil-wrapped packs to take home. Potato salad in one. Carp in another. And, finally, vanilla crescents. I ate them on the way home, staring out the tram window at the spires of Prague, but feeling like a boy in at my grandma’s house in Iowa. And I realized then that somewhere out there, someone was eating fruitcake—and loving every bite.

David Farley

It is is a small city in the south of the Czech Republic characterised by the incredible density of old stone buildings with terracotta roofing, all centered around the stunning Cesky Krumlov Castle. It is this architecture that has made the place famous, with the old town being named a Unesco Heritage site in order to preserve its beauty.

But architecture is not the only string to the Cesky Krumlov bow. There are a variety of adventure activities on offer in the surrounding area for backpackers to sink their teeth into, especially water sports due to the various lakes and rivers close by. So if you eventually get bored of exploring the enchanting streets of the city you can head out to the Sumava National Park (the biggest in Czech Republic) and take in environments from giant forests and alpine meadows to man-made lakes and winding rivers.

The best bit about all of this is that it has everything that so many people visit its more famous cousin, Prague, for; it’s just a short plane ride away, offers outstanding value and has fantastic Czech beer! If you like the sound of that but want to get slightly off the beaten track then look no further, this bohemian delight will be right up your street.