If you were to talk about Peru and lost civilizations that are visited by people the world over, the first name mentioned by anyone worth the stamp on their passport is that of Machu Picchu. The tragedy, however, is that no one knows of the “other” Machu Picchu that far many hikers are now preferring. We are talking about Choquequirao, literally meaning “The Cradle of Gold” and this is a trail that is wild and feral, untamed by time and loved by hikers for its remoteness and distance from the commercialism and popularity of Machu Picchu, its more celebrated cousin. Located in Southern Peru, this Incan city’s remoteness is its strength as the few that do make it here are treated to a world trapped in time and far from the madding crowd.

In structure and style, it bears a markedly strong resemblance to Machu Picchu and is littered with architectural gold dust in the form of buildings that sit on terraced hilltops. Legend has it that this city was the last abode of the Incans after they fleed Cusco in the 16th century. This was constructed during the time of King Pachacuti Inca Yupangui and is nestled away in the Salkantay mountain range high above in the valleys of the Cusco region. Archaeologists have only uncovered about a third of the entire city but the parts that have been excavated is classical in its Incan ways. The temples and buildings stand on a square with the living quarters of commoners not far off and the niches used and styling of the doorways shows that the city was once an exalted one in Incan culture. The city itself is so inaccessible that it wasn’t until the 1970’s that excavation work begun.
Strangely, and maybe even impressively, carvings and figures of Llamas and Alpacas are freely found all around Choquequirao on a set of terraces and it is strange to see the animals so carefully worked into the terraces using white rock. It is perhaps true then that these creatures held a special position in the way of life of the Incans. If the Peruvian government has its way, more people will be able to enjoy little wonders like this because as it stands getting to Choquequirao involves taking a two day hike from Cusco, but the government has mooted a cable car service that will cut traveling time drastically. While this means that the place will lose its uniqueness, it is also a good thing in some ways since the hike is very treacherous as of now with mud slides and rock sides a common occurrence, especially once the rains set in. It is far more difficult to trek that the route to Machu Picchu and the dirt trail is unending and maddening. Perhaps all of that will be a thing of the past now, which is a shame for the trek itself is a rite of passage to a city lost in the bowels of time.


