During siesta time, the streets of Toledo, Spain can be eerily quiet. It’s hard to blame the 15,000 or so people who live within the walls of the old city for taking a break from the scorching summer heat, but it creates something of a museum air.
View from Museo Victorio Macho
Toledo’s history
Of course, Toledo’s old city is a living museum. It’s one of the oldest cities in Spain – no-one knows exactly when it was founded, but the first record of its existence comes from Roman times. Set on one of the few hilly points among the flat plains of Castilla-La Mancha, and with the Tagus River flowing past it, Toledo has always been a natural spot for a city. It’s hard to conquer, and has its own water supply.
Over the years, it has been a key point for whoever has had control over the Iberian Peninsula at the time – whether Visigoth, Arabic or Castillan. Up until capital status was transferred to the then small village of Madrid in 1561, Toledo was the national capital.
Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral
While it is no longer the political hotseat, it is still the country’s religious capital. The cardinal-bishop of Toledo is the chief cardinal of all Spain, and Toledo’s cathedral is the equivalent of Canterbury cathedral in England (albeit Catholic rather than protestant).
The Cathedral is one of the world’s most impressive. It’s almost entirely built in the high Gothic style, and even though construction on it started in 1236, it wasn’t finished until 1493. The most impressive part of it is the main door – the Door of Forgiveness. This highly decorated entrance is only ever used on special occasions, such as when a new archbishop takes charge and the king or pope are visiting.
The cathedral is one of Toledo’s two main draw cards. The other is the Alcazar, which sits on the highest hill in town but is currently closed while the country’s army museum is installed there. But to pick out one highlight really misses the point – Toledo is chock full of treasures, and just walking around the streets is one of them.
The old city is, by and large, kept traffic-free. This makes strolling a pleasure, and some of the narrow streets where opposing balconies almost crash into each other are hugely atmospheric. And amongst these streets are a number of significant buildings.
The Burial of the Count of Orgaz
One is the Iglesia de Santo Tome. As a church, it’s largely unremarkably. But the painting inside it is one of the world’s masterpieces. The Burial of the Count of Orgaz is widely regarded as El Greco’s best work – and the Greek-born artist’s painting has a separate room to itself.
The painting depicts, as the title would suggest, the burial of the Count of Orgaz. It’s huge, and depicts the action in both earth and heaven. Looking closely, you can see an angel carrying the count’s soul, and Jesus pointing to St Peter, asking him to get the key to open the gates of heaven. El Greco painted his friends and patrons into the scene, and he sneaks himself in too – he’s one of the mourners behind St Stephen.
View from Museo Victorio Macho
Museo Victorio Macho
Nearby is another treat for art lovers – the Museo Victorio Macho. Victorio Macho was born in Palencia, but lived in Toledo in his later years. He gave his house and collection to the nation when he died, and said house is now open as a museum displaying his works.
Some of the sculptures are quite special – particularly the one of his elderly mother slumped in a chair, carved in great detail out of Carrara marble. But the building is in a sensational location too. From the terrace you can look out over the new city and plains, as well as down towards the Tagus River. It’s a wonderful spot in which to rest and admire for a few minutes.
Santa Maria la Blanca synagogue
Another fascinating attraction in Toledo is the Santa Maria la Blanca synagogue, and it illustrates the religious history of Toledo quite beautifully. It was built as a synagogue in the 12th century, but the Jews commissioning it employed Muslim builders. Thus it was constructed in the Mudejar style, with arches and eight-pointed star aplenty. There’s just one Jewish symbol in the whole building – a small Star of David above one of the arches.
In the 15th century, the synagogue was converted into a church, and some Christian design touches were added. It is now neither church nor synagogue, but has been kept open as a monument providing an intriguing visual overview of Toledan history.
Monasterio de San Juan de Los Reyes
Cloister roof at Monasterio de San Juan de Los Reyes
Perhaps the most beautiful building in Toledo, however, is the Monasterio de San Juan de Los Reyes. Commissioned in the 15th century by the Catholic Monarchs, it was originally intended to be their mausoleum. The entrance hall has an incredible vaulted ceiling with interlocking circles and petal shapes. The heart is the cloisters, however.
They have been hand-carved over a period of 100 years by master craftsmen, and are in the late Gothic style. Look carefully, and you can see all manner of wildlife carved in. There are monkeys, bears and dragons amongst other creatures.
In the middle, surviving in a city where winters are usually too cold to do so, is a sole orange tree. It’s a peaceful, pretty scene and one that could easily go unexplored in a city with so much in a small area.
Toledo is a remarkably blessed city, and should feel overrun by tourists. But at siesta time on a hot summer’s day, it feels as though you’ve got the world of discoveries to yourself.
