Turin may not be on the classic Italian tourist route of Venice – Florence – Rome, but it is a hugely underrated city. The home of FIAT and Juventus Football Club has a genuine energy about it, an artsy streak, and is a wonderful place in which to wander around the side streets getting enjoyably lost.
But there’s also plenty to do and see in and around Turin – and here are some of the highlights.
Embrace the white magic
Turin’s claim to being a truly magical city is not just tourist board hyperbole. It is supposedly one of the three key points on two mystical triangles, if you believe people who are into that sort of thing. Along with Prague and Lyon it reputedly forms a powerful triangle of white magic, a source of much of what is good in the world. However, it is also a point on a sinister black axis, connecting to London and San Francisco; a force for bad.
Turin’s Piazza CastelloUnsurprisingly, the magical links run through the heart of the city, the Piazza Castello. It’s a big, open square, with shop fronts lining two sides and two giant buildings dominating. Both are strongly linked to Emmanuele Filiberto, the Duke of Savoy who made Turin his capital in the 16th century after moving in from Chambery in France. This French link explains a lot, incidentally, as the city has a very French feel, particularly in its dining habits.
The first building of note in the square is the Palazzo Madama, now an antiques and art museum, but formerly a castle. It looks like it has seen better times, but the mystery lies underneath. Apparently, there is a system of caves that was kept hidden from the public at the time. Down there, the increasingly obsessed duke and his finest scientific minds spent much of their waking hours dabbling in alchemy.
Turin’s white magic heart can be found by the gates in front of the Savoy family’s primary residence, the Palazzo Reale. Stand between the statues of Castor and Pollux, next to the old man turning over roasted chestnuts and you’re there.
Or join the dark side
Turin’s black magic epicentre is Piazza Statuto. This square is seemingly innocuous, barring the disturbing monument in the middle in which anguished-looking men are trapped in the rocks, climbing up grimly towards an angel.
It’s a massive traffic hub, surrounded by furniture shops and fast food joints, but ever since Roman times it has been regarded as a place of utter darkness. Executions were carried out here, and the dead buried deep below the piazza’s surface.
Piazza Statuto is the starting point for Viator’s Magic Turin Evening Tour, which also takes in other supposedly magical sites and odd details etched onto bizarre architecture across the city.
A final magical destination is the Church of Santa Maria Ausiiliatrice, a rather lovely church, which is within easy walking distance of the city centre. St Giovanni Bosco, who founded the church, was notorious for entertaining his congregations with magic tricks. His most famous was making three separate pieces of rope combine as one to explain the Holy Trinity. And he is now the patron saint of magicians…
Italian Job pilgrimage
Fans of the Michael Caine classic (as opposed to the dreadful remake), will recognise certain spots in Turin. The famous three-car jump stunt in the Italian Job was filmed on the roof of Fiat’s Lingotto complex – which is now a major shopping centre open to visitors.
The scene where they drove the cars down steps after crossing the weir on the River Po was filmed on the steps outside the Gran Madre di Dio church.
The Mole Antonelliana
The Mole Antonelliana was originally built as a synagogue, but was never used as such after the spiralling costs saw the city’s Jewish community pull out during the construction phase. The building now houses Italy’s National Museum of Cinema – and is thus thought to be the tallest museum in the world.
It’s not just the size that’s impressive either – the museum makes excellent use of the building. Movie screenings, film posters from across the generations, props and memorabilia seem to cram into every little nook. There’s a degree of flamboyance about the displays as well, using deep red curtains and giant statues to inject a bit of Hollywood glamour and scale.
It’s when the films finish, however, that things get really exciting. The whole building turns into a dazzling light show, with hidden blinds raised to let the sunlight in, and projections flashed across the roof.
Go wine-tasting
This is an area that takes its food and drink very seriously indeed – the Slow Food movement started up only a short drive away from Turin – and as a result, the produce rarely dips below excellent. Nearby Alba is also regarded as the home of the white truffle – and if there’s anywhere to try a bit of sampling, this is it.
For those more interested in the accompaniment to dinner than the dinner itself, then you may well be in heaven. Forget your chianti – the Piedmont region around Turin arguably provides the best wines in Italy.
There’s an extremely good reason why Barolo wines are often the most expensive on a restaurant menu – a high percentage of them taste absolutely sensational. So why not try a few of them out on a Barolo wine tour?
Quad-biking in the Alps. There’s a good reason the Winter Olympics were held here.The Italian Alps
Of course the other highlight within a short drive of Turin is the Italian Alps. The city hosted the 2006 Winter Olympics, and many of the events were played out in venues up in the mountains. It doesn’t take long before the elevation starts to climb, and the views – particularly in the winter months when snow covers the peaks.
The area is obviously ideal for skiing in the winter, but the walking in summer and autumn can be superb. There are also plenty of mountainside spa retreats for anyone fancying a spot of pampering, and other activities available include quad biking through the forests near the town of Oulx.
